Hamburg, NY

The Waterstone Grill Brings Surf and Turf to the South Towns

J.M. Lesinski

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A shot of the front entrance of The Waterstone Grill in Hamburg, New YorkPhoto by J.M. Lesinski

Just off the i90 in Hamburg, New York, one of the South towns’ top choices for date night, or just a good steak, can be found. The Waterstone Grill appears to have gotten in on the ground floor around several area hotels that have popped up over the years, capitalizing on the tourism they bring to the Western New York area.

Steak and chops bring the people in with Waterstone featuring some of the South town’s best cuts of meat. The eight ounce filet mignon comes slathered in garlic herb butter with assorted vegetables and a baked potato, while the black angus twelve ounce New York strip steak features the same accoutrements.

Ribeye steak is a thing of beauty at Waterstone, with the pearl white of the bone glistening just so under the evening atmosphere mood lighting. The fourteen ounce ribeye gets the same accessories as the filet mignon and strip, but the eighteen ounce blackened is the cream of the crop, with the reserve angus ribeye coming seared, topped with crispy onions, and asparagus and Yukon gold mashed potatoes on the side.

The seafood at Waterstone is paralleled only to their steak and chops and features possibly the only restaurant in Hamburg with barramundi. The seared barramundi, also known as the Australian sea bass, comes with wild rice, roasted butternut squash, and salsa verde. The baked stuffed fillet of sole with crab meat stuffing, sauteed spinach, and brandied lobster sauce is a must-try too.

The typical fish menu guests are present and accounted for, with the sesame encrusted ahi tuna coming in hot with a wasabi soy glaze, rice, and red slaw on the side. The panko encrusted salmon fillet brings the staple health food fish to life with dill beurre blanc, asparagus, and rice on the side, while the honey sriracha shrimp does the crustacean good with fresh spinach and rice too.

Several other main entrees do pork, chicken, and even duck, well. The crispy half-roasted duck brings the somewhat fatty texture of the meat to a manageable realm, as do the dressing and sides, which consists of raspberry sauce, assorted vegetables, and Yukon gold mashed potatoes. The half rack of St. Louis ribs speaks for itself, featuring coleslaw and French fries on the side, with a full rack only nine dollars more.

Chicken Marsala at Waterstone holds its own with a rather sweet marsala wine demi-glace, mushrooms, roasted reds, and assorted vegetables. The mesquite grilled chicken breast has the most allure of BBQ on the menu, coming with sauteed onions, Jack Daniel’s BBQ demi-glace, assorted vegetables, and fries on the side.

Sandwiches and burgers are straight forward, like the bacon bleu burger with bacon, bleu cheese, caramelized onions, mayo, lettuce, tomato, and fries on the side. The Waterstone Burger features bacon, Swiss cheese, caramelized onion, mayo, rosemary garlic, and fries on the side for their namesake.

The prime rib French dip comes on a fresh baked baguette with provolone, caramelized onions, and fries on the side, while the BBQ chicken sandwich comes with bacon, BBQ sauce, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, mayo, and fries on the side. The big money sandwich, the sesame encrusted ahi tuna, features red slaw, wasabi mayo, and fries for its side.

For the noodle-lovers, there are rich, deep pasta bowls at Waterstone. Of the four, all priced equally, a personal favorite is the baked chicken parmesan with breaded chicken, organic marinara, linguini, baked mozzarella on top, and garlic bread. The salt and sweet together is a harmony of flavor, highlighted by the near magic gooey texture of the baked mozzarella.

The baked spinach and mushroom features the namesake vegetables sauteed with the same marinara, mozzarella, and garlic bread, but fettuccine for the pasta. The baked Italian sausage of course features succulent Italian sausage with peppers and onions alongside the same marinara, mozzarella, and garlic bread. The rigatoni Bolognese is the simplest of the pack, coming only with shaved parmesan and garlic bread.

Dinner pasta dishes are another creature entirely. The gorgonzola steak alfredo merges Waterstone’s amazing angus sirloin with a hearty helping of fettuccine, spinach, mushrooms, peppers, onions, gorgonzola cheese, and alfredo sauce. Likewise with the seafood, the shrimp scampi linguini features sauteed shrimp, creamy lemon garlic beurre blanc sauce, diced tomato, and Ritz cracker crumbles.

The Mediterranean Pasta offers a vegetarian option for a dinner pasta, though chicken or shrimp is also available for extra. The Mediterranean features artichokes, kalamata olives, roasted red peppers, grape tomato, garlic, feta cheese, and extra virgin olive oil. The three cheese and vegetable tortellini comes with Italian sausage, organic marinara, and shaved parmesan.

Soup and salad do not disappoint at Waterstone. The Fall Harvest salad features granny smith apples, crumbled bleu cheese, candied walnuts, dried cranberries, red onion, tomato, red cabbage, mixed greens, and tarragon vinaigrette for an amazing melody of flavors. The steak salad also includes mushrooms, mixed greens, grape tomatoes, red onions, bacon, and bleu cheese for a heartier salad dish, over the traditional Caesar.

The French Onion Soup Au Gratin brings that salty richness one comes to expect of a good interpretation of the classic soup dish. The lobster bisque does similarly with the thickness of it’s broth, coming with sherry for a dainty and sweet finish.

Appetizers at Waterstone vary between veggie-centric and seafood, with chicken wings smack dab in the middle of it all. Being a Buffalo, New York restaurant, the chicken wings are done right at Waterstone, crisped up just right and available in hot, Buffalo, BBQ, spicy ginger, or bourbon glaze sauces.

Of the seafood appetizers, the seared crab cakes with remoulade sauce are at the top of the menu for a season. They are perfectly crispy, tender where they need to be, and the sauce really adds a nice touch. The butterflied coconut shrimp is a good option as well, coming with a tangy orange chili dipping sauce.

Stuffed banana peppers are a specialty at Waterstone, featuring Italian sausage and three different cheeses. The stuffed banana pepper flatbread adds a crunchy layer to the already excellent dish and come with marinara and mozzarella for a pizza flavor infusion. The spinach artichoke dip comes with pita triangles au gratin, while the crispy brussels sprouts and potatoes feature a house-made ranch and balsamic glaze.

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I have worked as a professional journalist for over five years now, covering the arts, music, food, politics, and culture up and down both coasts of the United States. I have a B.A. in English from SUNY Fredonia with minors in Psychology and Creative Writing, as well as an M.F.A. in Creative Writing from California State University, Fresno.

Buffalo, NY
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